#1189 - Alex Honnold

The Joe Rogan Experience #1189 - Alex Honnold

October 25, 2018

Alex Honnold is a big wall free solo climber. A documentary feature film titled "Free Solo" captures his record setting ascent of El Capitan, and it can be seen now in movie theaters all over. http://www.honnoldfoundation.org/

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ladies and gentlemen and non-binary people

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my new Netflix specials available right now it's called strange times cuz that's what we're living in motherfukers it's available right now I think it's my best one ever honestly I would tell you you know what I would do honestly if it really sucked I would wait until after the promotion is over and then I would tell you because of the Great and Powerful Joey Diaz has said unfavorable things about his Netflix special on a pan of people not happy with him but

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that's why he's the best motherfuckers honest I'm on is too but I'm also evasive I'll avoid some shit if I won't lie to you though I'm happy with it these fucking things are stressful as shit so the fact that it's over and done and people the overwhelming response has been positive overwhelming so I hope you like it if you don't you don't like me that's cool this episode of the podcast brought you by stamps.comstamps.com is the V easiest way to access all of the amazing Services of the US Post Office stamps.com never closes you can print postage for letters or packages at your convenience 24/7 you could do it drunk and naked no one gives a fuck it's damp., they're crazy you could print postage for any class of mail right from your own computer and the exact amount of postage every time you never under peor

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my guest today is probably one of the most maybe the famous most famous free solo climber maybe the most famous climber alive she has a movie out right now it's called free solo and he is a fantastic inspirational and wonderful young man and please give it up for Alex Honnold

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The Joe Rogan Experience

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what's a guy like you it's always nice to see you're still alive I miss of like interviewing with people in there like you know you know you could die is the scary yeah yeah it's alright it's not until the time and part of that it's tiring but then part of it like people asking questions because they're obvious because everybody wants to know this is one of the weirdest parts of the film is when they're showing all the guys who have died from free soloing and they're actually slightly hyperbolic his two of them died base jumping in one of the bedrooms champagne that they were all were free Solace which is kind of what the film is saying that they're all free Solace who have died but they all died in the mountains doing

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country made it extreme activities. That's not doesn't make the story is good you got that's like Poetic license yeah he got sneaky well you know that's not the same though

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yeah I know exactly why I prefer the other way to look at it is the no free solo stings ever died doing anything cutting edge of my favorite cystic where that mean like no resources ever died doing hartsoe law on ABC a free if you freeze olives have died falling out that easy trying or just following us a routine or if you know I don't know just falling off the mountain but none of them have ever died while doing something cutting-edge something that had never been done before my nose hardcore do you think that's because when you doing something that's a little bit easier you relax I think that's probably part of it but also I think part of it is just a numbers thing you spent so much time do you stop and so little time doing really hard stuff then you know it's just

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how much how important is it when when you're free soloing to have that edge to be like really talk cognizant about how intense this is like if you got to, too relaxed no I think that's I think that is kind of the concern for sure and I have noticed that and for myself anyway and I try not to do very much easy selling anymore because there was a certain complacency it over time you know you just do so much mileage on easy to rain in the yard this is so easy this is so easy and then you slip anytime, cool you know

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you know Fighters look at things that way to like they did a certain point in their life they don't want easy fights because they need to get challenged otherwise they won't trained properly and then they wanted losing to be taken seriously what's the difference between a fighter say when they're not trained and not in Camp and just their skill and what their body can do without without going through a camp is probably only like 70% of what they are when they actually go through everything with full intensity 8 wheeler 2 times a day you know physical therapy massage visualization conditioning all the all the things that make them who they are the day they step into the cage like when you free solo attorney said that's exactly two level four bration that went into it do you take time off before a big free solo do you like

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let's look now it's the opposite of some sort of ramping up to it right but do you is there any concern that maybe you haven't given yourself enough recuperative time like for the day of know what's up for me anyway it was always heard of the opposite because the real challenge a free song It's a psychological said the mental side of it and it's not so much the physical like I don't necessarily have to physically perform at the absolute limit of what I'm capable of but I have to mentally perform at that level and so on the mental side of it comes so much from confidence and feeling you're feeling prepared and so I don't know it's so when I when I first saw it okay if I kind of knew that I wasn't actually like I probably already started to decline a little bit physically over the course of the Season cuz it 2 months and he said he's just kind of grew in her body like it all the time I spent going up and down on the wall and preparing for every time until I kind of realize that I was starting to get so deeply 15 I was sort of a week away from light haven't started this Lompoc like though I'm kind of pooped but the thing is I knew that that because of all that preparation

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yes I can watch as good as I was ever going to be so even if I was physically trying to be a little bit tired it's like time to you know it's kind of the different curves you have to hit it right at the right moment now is your psychological preparation just you getting your mind into it or do you have like specific techniques to use or form of meditation or anything that you specifically concentrate on when you're visualizing success answer no surveys or visualizing for me it's visualizing The Experience picture of imagining what everything will feel like imagining what it would like to place my foot on a hold or what yo grab like the sensations of it and the exposure of it you know thinking through what it'll feel like with so much are around me and there were hoping just to make sure that nothing is surprising when I get there to my friends are sweating just talking to I'm not kidding feel that I feel that

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fucking grow its right cuz I realized it like when I'm talking I'm thinking about you doing this and my hands are fucking sweating they start talking powder and that shit like that God damn dude have you ever gone to like a sports psychologist or if you ever like actively tried to coordinate a program from mental training or anything like that no not really I mean so with I found that I needed to create enough space for is messing with mental training but but create enough empty time so that I had so that I was able to process so

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Ernest I'd like to talk to you on the email I erase my social media I like sort of free on my life and then I should my girlfriend left for the start of the week ahead of time so that was totally by myself in my van with nothing going on like no distractions answer that's not exactly mental training but it was giving myself to free time that I could just sit around and think about things you have to process like it in my own terms in my own time when was the last time we talked how many years ago was it so long at least for right in terms of the way people perceive what you do and the amount of attention that you got I would imagine that having that alone time now as much harder it's funny I mean I've tried to not let my life get busy over time but it just sorta naturally happens I mean which is cess

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I was like Skies probably getting fucked with all the time like someone's probably always poking that you and you're just trying to get a foothold literally at the just trying to hold on I appreciate all the opportunities I have now and you know I mean I'm very happy with the way my life has changed over time but certainly when I look back at 10 or 12 years ago and I was just a single 20 year old man living in a car like I had nothing going on you know if I had like one interview in a month I'll be like was a big month for media you know and then now on filter it's like completely outrageous is totally in the other Eye Spectrum doing is filmed when it when is the film actually come out in theaters circuiting you know earlier in the end of the summer and then it came out in theaters at the end of September so it's right now I think this weekend is its widest released like 400 Theaters over the country right now

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and then interior us to National Geographics I think I'll be on television on the channel at some point and then eventually Gulfstream somewhere I don't know is it strange all this attention

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yeah me too I don't know it's in some ways it's a natural extension of all the stuff I've had over the years and I like having a 60 Minutes peace and many years ago was a bit of a lizard with a flurry of attention instead of kind of prepared me in some ways you know where you've done with this role after it comes with what I do I'm in Show Business and I'll show business if that's a climber the most radical kind of climber free solo you think when I think of what you do I think of quiet tension should be sort of meditative relaxing and quiet but then obviously you're also sometimes training your entire body feel like trying very hard physically and things you said to me the last time we talked was that it's it's very mellow because if it ever gets intense something's go

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car was wrong I still feel exactly the same way

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yeah that's always a challenge just to keep it keep it relaxed for a guy like you my perception of a guy like you who's that that person who's doing that activity then to sort of juxtaposed that with this mediator type environment and dealing with all these people that seems to me like it would be really annoying

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I mean yeah it's very different than my normal normal lifestyle I guess it but the thing is you know what sort of an adventure Disney Experience in its own way I've been I've been kind of calling it a Expedition film to her because I've done a lot Expeditions not like last winter when to Antarctica from onton and it's not exactly the type of time and I normally do and I don't really like being cold they serve like oh it is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to go somewhere you know it's like going to bars or something I was just totally outrageous experience for climbing big rock walls on in Antarctica you just living on the glaciers totally different totally crazy and a very very thick sleeping bag do you have a good warm yeah yeah yeah kind of experience you know when someone is very comprable to a phone to rhyme like this going to be a once-in-a-lifetime thing you just embrace it you go with it you know it's different than the way you normally choose to live your life but that kind of makes an understanding us something new

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why can imagine that would be very interesting thing sounds like a trip traveling on an established Corridor it was and I know it's what system people have climbed in the region before but booby action to Town the first sounds like Route 7 and Summit in every client wow that's pretty cool when you do something like that to map it out in advance like I mean we're not really cuz I mean if photos of of the formations and people would like a set of clamps some of them some Norwegian sits where to find near Darien written a book about it but I'm but then it's not till you get there that you can really decide what you're going to climb and how it looks I mean ultimately you have to look at the Rock and see if it's kind of boring so you basically have to ski up and then touch it and see what you can do and then try to find them you ski up we are cuz you're living on a glacier I mean you have to see everyone wow this is cool I did I did a month wearing only ski boots or climbing shoes for my bedroom slippers

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I feel like I actually really thick socks and then keeping everything as warm as possible but we have me worrying climbing shoes in Antartica is pretty chilly actually there's a film about that coming out in a couple weeks I think it's part of the real Rocky or it's like a big finally film festival thing or film to her that's what it shows around the world but so it's like a 40-minute short at 30 minutes or I'm actually I can see me yet but those shoes that you wear on normal climb are very flexible or those La sportiva zit without their very they almost look like a sock with like a rubber bottom to it we could really kind of Grill yet it depends is so summer super soft like that it depends on what you're trying to climb that summer really Ridgid so you can step on a really small holes in it supports your foot so like what I was wearing free soy milk app is like white rigid actually think I'm bored like a platform so that you can put just the tip of your toe on something really small on your foot was to stay

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Mullica mountaineering type of a yeah kind of but still also very precise cuz mountaineering boot you think lucky and big and she was like a ballet and in tight but then also rigid sometimes yeah and then also I don't know you know when you're coming cracks you put your foot into the crack when you twerk it sideways to like locking into place instead of the stiffer the issue is the more I can you know the more that you can lock the shoe in two places put your foot you busy after use for your muscles are why are you starting a trend are there other people that are following your footsteps now what do you think I think there's probably some people that look at what you're doing and in the young kids that think it must be here's what I think most people look at the path that the average person takes in life you know I don't sell cars I'm going to be an insurance guy and they look they look at it like it's def if they look at a kid that young kid who's liked enjoying playing

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his friends are doing sports or playing video games are reading comic books and then you look at what could be the average path that the average person takes in life and sitting in an office all day under fluorescent lights it looks like death it looks like a slow aching death but then I look at someone like you and Mike Wallace guys living a special life is a special why was it why do you lie to somebody would look at it and see that like this is somebody living at very intentional life or having chosen a certain path I would love to inspire people to live an intentional life that they care about I don't necessarily feel like people need to go freeze celery that's a very good way of describing it very good way of putting it because I think you should most certainly of influence people in that regard but I think also people must be influenced in in the sense that they see where you're doing is man there's moments that you must experience while

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You Are Climbing these incredible faces that are kind of magical when you're up there you're a thousand feet up there the view is fucking spectacular and you're doing it and you're you get to the top of these things though the rush and the feeling of accomplishment of the Euphoria and just the glory of nature from that perspective you can fucking wash your clothes on the sweat it's in my hands right now man that's a fucking pictures and saying we're looking at it what is the name of this photo Jamie is being dark Corners mocap

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desert Chavez the movie poster do that is not sitting in a cubicle that is not fluorescent light that is the end of a very long path that you have to choose and Anna really cultivate you know I mean that's that's for me 23 years of sort of going in it or 22 years or something going down a very specific bath very specific you know and you're still have a different van are you still in the same van I'm in a better man than I am moved up I live in I live in Las Vegas now the best in the country of Las Vegas climbing everywhere and it's super accessible and it's easy and it's like cheap cost of living Eazy-E no no traffic like everything is easy about that's cool whenever I go to Vegas I was look at the mountains

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side of my driveway you can see two thousand foot walls climbing on a 2004 1 unit 25 minute drive 20 minute drive people like to run those mountains to run those Hills is lot of Trail Runners that live in the areas what side of town you're like in the mountain mountain biking I can go hiking I can go climbing all your 20 minutes is kind of a misunderstood place getting a really think the strip but it's like it's not really weird because of the way people think of the desert in Nevada but really the mountains I mean it's like series of mountain range is all the way across to stay near where he lives where we Colorado again I was right there and there's a bunch of common areas right there they're great in the freaking skiing all the Nerds

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how old do you know 33 feel any difference in the way your body responds to doing this on a regular basis now maybe a little bit I'm getting old and everything but I but I think especially right now at the phone to her the amount of travel like I'm more intentional about my diet and stuff now and trying to get enough sleep and things like that so in the your 10 years ago I can just eat a whole tray Oreos and be like alright I feel great let's go climbing the gym I'll be fine you know now I'm like all man I want my green smoothie I want to get my night sleep and you're you're not eating meat anymore and that you eat a lot of vegetables and do you get your bloodwork done or do do you have any work with your nutritionist okay good and I mean even meet so I mean I give up you need for environmental reasons mostly impact on the earth and so I'm not fun

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mentally pose you know like I'll eat me some down time certainly forever for cultural norms like I was in Japan earlier this year and I'm sorry fish there but just because I felt like I was part of those sort of Japanese travel experience if some 108 would you eat it yeah yeah sometimes but the thing is I just don't feel like I need to intentionally kill another creature for me to survive and so if somebody was going to go hunting for me to eat and be like no it's fine right like I'm expedition to Antarctica I ate a bunch of random eat just because it's like it's already there you know the other team members of already brought it I'm sort of like well I'm hungry right over Ryan mollusks are actually a good thing for people to look into that are vegan or vegetarian and they don't want to eat me because they're actually more primitive even in vegetables clams and scallops during credibly primitive have no feelings they don't feel anything they have no

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argument that could be made that plants communicate far more than molluscs like lobster like oysters rather Muscle Maker Grill crunchy but there's a protein to them that's similar to an animal protein but incredibly primitive out of work I mean yeah I'm not I'm not fundamentally opposed to eating insects and it's just you know what they're really served but I wouldn't have it just imagine that particular as you get older like nutrition would be a major factor making sure you get the proper amount of essential fatty acids and making sure that cuz your brain must be like you have to fuel your brain in terms of like giving your your brain the building blocks for neurotransmitters and all these different things that you're you're using when your get this intense concentration from many many hours at a time and you not eating when you're doing these things right

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sometimes stop and go hours sometimes it'll bars or Not Butter Fairmount or yeah to take those enough that has what is that other great I have a whole box of them will give you some they send them to you yeah it's called it's called F-bomb like fat bomb but it's all like nut butter and oils and it comes in a package is rip the top of the package off and squeeze it in your mouth at 3 S morning oh wow that's really good it's really high definition

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yes that is it tell Jeff there's a box of them in my office over there or run into the office door and like sitting right in the front to the right hand side there's a box of them I'll give you that that's exactly what I'm talking about the morning when I'm out headed out the door with a cup of coffee like a lot of a lot of bad though I'm doing this sober October fitness challenge with my friends I've been working out I'm not not no bullshit as much as 5 hours in a day cuz I'm trying to win this we have o WWE style championship belt it says Intercontinental Champion sober October or Intergalactic Champion zero the silver part so does that mean you're not know nothing

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so you just clean living for all of October and training your freaking brain out wearing these these belts that measure your heart rate and they also quantify your performance like how much calories you burn and there it is he can take that the stuff that shit what flavors at one fantastic stuff I like the chocolate and sea salt 1/2. I'll look through and I'll sample of its ingredients are you up and you tear the top and you squirt in your mouth yet I do that, in a lot I kind of prefer that to to gels argue or whatever you want to call it cuz you just pure sugar I'd kind of prefer to have your phone yeah certainly for climbing it's just not like him it's not like running or cycling or something where your engine is burning Non-Stop

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beside pump sugar into it it's kind of a longer slow burn fat for sure do you ever mess around with nootropics at all in her that we are the building blocks for human neurotransmitters it's like they're their there supplements that enhance cognitive function is that some of them are like standard would you get at like GNC you wouldn't think of as a nootropic but they're finding out they are like creatine they're finding out creatine is actually a pretty potent nootropic actually sure enhance is cognitive performance but there's one called Alpha Brain that my company as I can I'll send a bunch of it to you there's another company called neuro one that makes a great one you know Bill Romanowski is no savage

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wanted to find some sort of natural way to replenish his brain function so he created this company called narrow one and that's this is how I found out about nootropics through his his product fantastic great stuff it just powder you put it in water Shake It Up it actually has a protein and a bunch of different neurotransmitters in it but it's really good for enhancing function Juicery we had to double-blind placebo-controlled studies with the Boston Center for memory that show did improvements in verbal memory and reaction time in Peak Alpha Flow State so what would you know if you go to onnit.com all the tests are available you can go over like what it means but what you find from these

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song called true brain dead what is that guy's name that we have guests to the podcast dr. Andrew

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no that's Andy Galpin there's my point is besides my company is a bunch of companies and make a really good ones and they're they're fantastic if you have to give speeches or if you even have talked we do any things like that I do like commentary on. You just go straight cocaine you don't fired up you just give a great talk anything you're like that for you to like how many people that are doing what you do are on either adderal or they take things like beta blockers that start with a lot of weeds or not is not even know what you do with it cuz he turned out to smoke it but I don't know if I've never really done drugs I don't I'm not totally understood some really know anything about it but

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I don't understand because it's not like anyone's drug testing climbers in Leominster competing in the World Cup level or if it's actually be in the Olympics in 2020 but like in terms of like a pathway that you have to go through as a World Cup climbing breaks into three disciplines like leave, which is like a same as indoor wall and then bouldering which is shorter without a rope you know what you want coffee and then speed climbing where it's like a preset Court Severn does the exact same course we could go as fast as you can against the timer and so normally there's a three disciplines for the World Cup but the Olympic format combines all 3 into 1 competition because they're limited by how many medals and whatever because it's like a demonstration sport there just sort of you know it's it's smaller scale than than some of the other sports in the Olympics but so on yeah so busy, computers just have to do all three disciplines then and then see you when I was watching something on YouTube where they have this climbing competition where they like Ready set go and then they like shot

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and this lady who's wearing a burka she is she like famous or something but there are a bunch of really strong and so I wouldn't be surprised if if I tell her that she ran up it like a spider was crazy to watch for whatever reason to become Eastern Europe and then there's a couple really good around in speak on risen it's like it's hurting its own little niche sport coming out of certain parts of the world are some strong genes over there and I ran like a lot of great wrestlers cuz I don't know I don't know if there's nothing anyone specific do to sell my skin is portrait in speed Iranians a climber

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Farah Naz spell that s smiles

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I think you pretty much got that video of her cuz she's a fucking Spider-Man runs

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yeah you can browse the internet yes you could find any way but still with the with the new Olympics I'll climbing officer Toby drug testing and with rockabilly start testing with performance enhancing drugs and I think they won won World Cup climber had a metal taken away for having used recreational cocaine and he was like oh I'm really sorry you know I'm sorry I couldn't talk but you was I was more for the party and then the performance you know that she is look at her I mean for a guy like you

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cuz it's it's it's pretty fast that's not as fast I mean if you watch some of the more lead time so it's it's faster for sure women or men both I think I think so I don't know how I don't know the guy who would know to me that's damn impressive just look up a world record I mean I think the mail records like 5.7 seconds are in 6 seconds to text me really really fast down today know this path in advance yeah so that's exactly the same route for everybody always the same distance same holds it so you basically memorize the sequence and then you just performed as fast as you can see here we go here's a world record

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so you stand on that thing yes or the timer starts when your one foot comes off the the timer on the ground and then the end when you slap the thing on the top right whatever it doesn't look real for the camera yeah I know it's so early these guys free solo or did they specifically concentrate on that beta blockers would be something that someone who free solos would want to look into it I don't even know what that is blocks your your brain's production of adrenaline don't know if you want that though because of things if you have an adrenaline Spike it's because something weird going on and you probably want to do you want to go tonight I've had a couple times where I would like broke a hold off or something like I'll send your holes rips off and then you have that like super

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Insurgent back on yeah you don't want to do mellow at that time yeah exactly I'm so relaxed all the way to the valley floor hold on just one of the guys who fell and I guess eventually died he was doing any fell and bass jumped seems like a good thing to have in your back well not really so yeah I'm in the idea makes sense but if you're going to fall off a cliff have parachute the thing is that you need to be on a very specific kind of Cliff like what he was on where was over hanging so that when he fell he cleared the wall and he like right loaded on the space but thing isn't you send me all the walls are slightly less than vertical in general and tell me that you to Tumble down the wall you know and the other things that even if you have a parachute parachute function is a Wayne you know that you have a direction to them like air comes into the mini fly into Direction which means you have to be facing away from the wall when you open your parachute or else you just

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learning to walk crash so it basically means that if you fall off unexpectedly you then have to track away from the wall right yourself in midair you know correct for everything and then make sure you're facing the right way to do a lot of things that have to go right for the parachute to help you but that's not good hope you much like I just jumped on purpose yeah this is well

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yeah she's got it so this is on the tiger though it looks like I think and you can yes he's like jumping away he's getting a nice controlled open and he'd like it flying away from the cliff that everything is going right for him to imagine if one of us would hold just broke and he started pinwheeling down the wall that you never get the separation from the wall crying after extreme sports videos and I'll just give you this guy is surely going to have a disaster video when they were talking about all the people that have died that every essentially everyone from the past that was a free-soiler is dead and you're saying there's other things that they were doing like based on your crotch is like a legendary solos need you to Childhood hero of mine and he's you know I don't say push in 6 weeks I'm not sure how old Peter is because you know he's an older he's a distinguished gentleman and he's living in Eastern Sierra he's climbing

► 00:41:49

time is like loving life with his wife and I see he's in grease on his work on vacation right now I'm just climbing for 2 months just fun climbing with a rope have a great time and so you're not looking at me like Peter and he said he was going it at the very cutting-edge for 20 years basically then and it still just happy, now but dizzy free solo anymore just climbs what's that was funny so I had dinner with him a couple years ago what point did you quit selling it at sort of an elite-level you know like Wendy's or the back off the grid and he was like well actually I didn't want to technically by the numbers I did one of my heart is free so last couple years ago but it was like a sport read it as local cry like a route that he would routinely plan for Fitness that just happen to be a pretty hard number you know like climbing grades are all Serta categorized and so usually I was just recently but it's like a hard number but not nearly as much of an undertaking you some of the big solos that you've done in the past like some of the walls that you told any sanity back in the day

► 00:42:44

you know I'm so he was like oh it's all just kind of how you define difficulty when you say the number system that sort of rates what I like how difficult a free solo climbing General with a rubber without a rope is just it just rates how hard to climb is what is l cap was it a true that I climbed is its 5:12 tea for whatever that means or maybe 1383 how are you depending on what you want to call it but what does that mean exactly they're climbing climbing grades are defined

► 00:43:18

dinosaurs in in America it's by the Yosemite decimal system and its classification of train from 1126 it's it's other parts of the world have different systems in like in Australia is just an open-ended numbers from 1 to 38 or something where is Seguin to get progressively harder climbing gear a comparison that I grew up in all different parts of the world culture I guess is a big part of Yosemite Yeah well yeah I mean climbing as a sport in the US is sort of birth from you send me I mean the the history of albinism are climbing rock on any Western the comes from Yosemite in the u.s. is it just because the Pats are so cool that they just drew people to it or yeah you're so striking

► 00:44:18

just had to do with just culture cuz that a big part of it was Pete from La in the Bay Area who probably had some sense of classical albinism from the Alps young people who travel to some extent and then wanted to be no climb of the mountains and it happen to live near one of the most iconic areas in the world and so then I don't know but anyways I wanted to being called you seven Decimal System but it's categories of a train to one being walking on a normal Trail to being like scrambling a little bit 3 being like scrambling with your hands and feet up you know rocks then fourth-class being like sort of like climbing the next class B natural rock climbing and so then it was 5.1 through 9 depending on how how hard things are you was a 5.1 being pretty easy 5.9 being pretty hard like a rock climbing on Technical and then a certain point that system

► 00:45:10

wasn't adequate so they had to start out in your 5.10 and then they subdivided into a b c d and then 5.11 ABCD and 5.12 is it now it's an open system that right now goes up to 5:16 basically well Motel chapter 12 D or M 5.12 D or maybe 5.13 day which is the next grade up but you're basically that means that it's it's elite like that's very difficult and something that like I was an average person can do but it's definitely not close to the physical limit of what's been done in the world but that's with a robe on and that's after you New Years of practicing what's the physical limit look what is the peak of War right now the hardest game in the world is 15 G

► 00:45:55

which is extremely hard I mean it's totally crazy but there's one guy this check on his done one route that he called 15D and still hasn't been repeated so it's not like an established consensus but there's several 15 season the world and there are there many 15 bees in the world wears his 15D it's in a cave in Norway

► 00:46:15

yeah that's the kind of interesting about climbing grades and climbing difficulty is it they're all spread around the world very specific Cliffs cuz it requires just the right combination of angle and holds you know you have to be enough things to hold onto but not too many or else it's easier and so for you and Lee climber the research in the world all the time trying to find that right mixture of a frog wow what a strange unusual until you find the right kind of challenge that there's some sort of a primal satisfaction that comes from climbing something right quality for sure this is something that just exist in the world and you know it

► 00:47:15

but if this is the film just scrub all the way to the very end that's the trailer right now like physical physically so he's he put up the world's first 15 C and the first 15 D so he's basically push the edge of difficulty for the last several grades and he's just previously sorry is that something that you would have to be to do what he's doing like a regular climber couldn't do what he's doing is almost like acrobatic involved is like that so this is the world's first 15 C so so I'll either he did the several years ago and then yeah

► 00:48:04

but yeah he's at he's an amazing, he's really he's like a polymath he's like he's great at every discipline what else is he do was there he have you heard of the Dawn while on a no-sew Tommy Caldwell you know who he is and he was one of which is also found in theaters or wasn't theaters last month is sort of random that too big, and phones come out exactly the same time but it's just one of those freaky things but so the dawn wall was considered the hardest climb the world to some extent of his thing it was a 7-year project for him up off the right side of El Capitan icons on the westside El Capitan, something on the right side which is much harder but he was using a rope and put 7 years of work into it and I'm anyways yeah and then this guy out of a video of how he did the Second Son and keep it like a month of work into it and it repeated it in your Star Wars really really strong

► 00:49:04

so when will you see a guy do something like that does that make you think about doing it or do you go that's only something that's all I can do with rot with ropes whole categories of climbing they can only be done with the Rope because the moves are way too insecure you fall off way too often I mean anything for him to for him to do something at the house I mean to it to climb at the very highest levels of of human I mean so think about the gymnast or something yeah that's tiny tiny tiny Edge this is the correct one of the pictures on the John Wall that is so insane but just grabbing it

► 00:50:04

empty we can try with like a hundred 15%. I'm pretty sure if you grab your head I tried as hard as it was pop like a little melon anytime you little things yeah he's very very sorry you can only do with a rope yeah yeah does he feel free solo as well I don't think he ever has that it's not really his thing and it's really hard to do both at a high level and

► 00:50:41

I I think you're at least to some extent are to do both of the high-level because so for him for him to climb something that hard he needs that intensity he needs a hundred 15% effort but if you're trying to free solo well you definitely should never be giving you anything you can remotely close to 115% of her or else you will die for sure you because you're so close that razor edge of failure when you're trying that hard but with Riesling you have to always keep it sort of in your comfort zone because you want to die doing it so I mean I think that I've always heard of kept my my personal like it on your personal barometer of effort I sort of live between 4 and 7 let's say or like 3 and 1/2 and 7 maybe where it's like you're never too relaxed but you're also never going to the absolute death or sort of like in the four to six is a sweet spot where you like I'm climbing I'm having a good time but I'm not like trying too hard and I'm not trying to relax but there's somebody like that monitor Tommy Caldwell like me a lot over the years he's he's great, and I've really seen this because he

► 00:51:37

I like I've seen him to randomly fall off many times because used to be just like slipped he's like oh I'm so relaxed it's so easy and then like office left and that's kind of like an effort of one where you're like your body is so relax though if anything happens and with rope on that's fine if somebody that's been more efficient way to climb because you know you're so relaxed most the time that you're saving light energy over all that every once in awhile when he falls like who cares the Rope catches you it's no problem but you have to trust those little things that you stick in the crap yeah but that's all he's like pushing his knee into the Rock to in order to relax its arms from this whole body is leaning backwards that is so insane that photo of your arms

► 00:52:37

well you know what I mean it for him it's like for him to be able to rest like that for one minute is an amazing way to rest your arms for a minute then it starts at Secor and Alexis got really tired of it like that does he lift weights or anything to prepare for these things are. It's just I don't know he's dead he's that he's leaving him that's crazy that's a weird huh that's interesting I've never seen that photo but I mean I guess you just get Jack from doing that too though just constantly pulling yourself for sure there's a climbing wall just like local kids place and I told my daughter give her a hundred bucks if she can make it all the way to the other side and I said it's pretty difficult and so she's become obsessed with trying to get over there to get a hundred bucks that's that's definitely Jack I mean you don't know it's hard to do

► 00:53:37

difficult to do I bet I bet if you if you try to bet me just because you have such a background movement Fitness and everything about but it wouldn't be that hard for you instruction yeah I'm pretty heavy though some of the short. That be an issue is hanging on to her no matter what your legs are always big brother like that's always what drives you up and then your arm should only be holding your weight in and keeping your keeping your balance of your feet basically the last like 10 15 years with Jujitsu and things were no signs that your legs you it's really important to use mostly relax when your yapping controlling your opponent in manipulating your opponent doing this stuff with your legs do you do anything to cross-train

► 00:54:33

might not really know how I mean I do other mountains worth welding in mountain biking or skiing or things like that yeah for fun and then the only real cross sort of like a push up in court of routine you know like optician training just to maintain healthy or not healthy body because you're constantly pulling yeah I try to do a little bit of Rain chords to make sure the things that bounce town you talk to physical therapist about or no that's just mean that's just basic physiology I mean if you only pull you have to push sometimes or else you want a ball and balance training injured well I saw I saw that one of the things in the film is when you were recovering from your ankle sprain and you know you would said that you really haven't been injured in years then all sudden you have this girl friend she doesn't climb and you get injured

► 00:55:24

yeah yeah. That actually is just freaked Prix timing because I think really it just shows that I've been really fortunate for 20 years I've had very few injuries climbing and then you know it some point you just have a few in this I mean that's just life it's almost done but when you do have something like that and you feel for the vulnerability of your tissue and your do you think about like hey what if this happened halfway up some fucking insane path know. The bigger than yours in the film I have a back injury earlier where I get lower. Senior the rope and fall I only fell maybe 10 or 12 ft answer like the height of this this room basically and but I landed sort of like folded over this rock back where it was like totally horrible like these Jagged Boulders though and didn't go that far but I was like you know I got worked and it was really sobering because it made me realize that if I fell from you know 40 feet climbing you know you could you could be that mean if you stop

► 00:56:24

if he's got it made me realize just how fragile my body is cuz I'm not going only felt a little tiny ways and it like really hurt pretty bad cuz I'm so much further you could you could Anything Could Happen yeah people step off stairs wrong and then also silver bus and someone is I mean it's amazing what with the human body can adapt to or withstand but then yet and some things just came and yeah that's why I was asking you about your age like as you get older are you seeing a difference in the way you recover a senior difference in the way and I like what your body will you feel like your potential is

► 00:57:09

yes sorry to say I think yeah I don't know I mean I mean you know I'm sure you're a fighter at your age 33 when you start telling off like winding down e435 when a Fighter hits like 36 like Yanks is that is that like old for fun it's pretty old it's very rare there's only a few guys have been able to compete in the world class level past that and MMA Randy Couture stands out and boxing Bernard Hopkins stands out how old is the Floyd Mayweather or is he still considered Conor McGregor Conor McGregor was nowhere near his level does Conor McGregor was really a box or no box some Floyd just kind of worked him

► 00:58:00

but he hasn't really thought at a world-class level for a couple years because you know he beat Canelo Alvarez several years going to meet Canelo drop a ton of weight when they beat Manny Pacquiao Manny Pacquiao was quite a bit past his Prime and had a shoulder injury so you probably dealing with like 3 years or so since he's fought like real world class competition you say made him drop lunch way it does that mean like to come to fight at a lower weight class is Floyd Floyd started off his Crest I want to say 1:30 and he thought it went through at 5 yeah and you know his real is any big how big is a very small and tiny little hands like very small hands very small Ford cars

► 00:59:00

best definitely top two or three defensive boxers of all time hit hard to the point where he's been wobbled like maybe like 4 or 4 times this entire career because that's the kind of box that you want to be exactly going to be like the Rocky Balboa and then you're like all men by another team you in a watch but I have a the better team yeah well especially with boxing because the consequences are so grave. A lot there's a horrible video that I put up on YouTube or on Twitter rather that I retweeted someone sent me and it's boxers when they're young talking versus after injuries and you're watching you like whoa it's it's stunning

► 01:00:00

right up until some kind of accident happened and then and then you potentially died at a high level for 50 years and never have any issues or you can maybe die doing it but it's kind of a fundamentally safesport for the most part as opposed to it while we're time I like fighting or football or things like that were like Oregon mountain biking where you're for sure going to get injured like no matter what just buy it just by playing the game yeah I think it looks like football and fighting they creep up on you like the injury start of pile and basically just evening practice you are getting injured constantly you know and so it's I mean that's kind of messed up so I can guess the price of Entry is is going to be you know freaking head injuries I went to a football game high school football game and when I was there I had a really hard time watching cuz everybody's cheering and I'm and I was talking to my friend of Mike you're looking at brain damage yeah I know it's messed up this is a really nice private school where they pay a lot of money

► 01:01:00

to get the kids into this program and then the kids are playing football at least they're they're all getting brain damage she goes really I got a hundred percent I could you see that Collision I go down brain damage that's definitely brain damage it might not be a lot they might be okay but how many of those do they do in a day how many do they do in a problem is it's such a grin part of our history and our culture's what does it really need to be from like very very close baby like from the commentators box like above the pens for the 4th of July rodeo in Wyoming like two summers ago and now it was something else like this is messed up I mean I'm not like huge animal rights and I was like

► 01:02:00

but what's even worse is I was like all these young men are getting worried just like for the entertainment is totally like Roman gladiator type stuff and I was like no because I can empathize cuz obviously I'm doing something it's also sort of Bloodsport you to some extent and enter it for the same reason you know you're a teenage dude looking to do something interesting and engaging that's that'll get you laid you know it's like you just want it I mean if you're from small-town Wyoming you're like I'm good at riding bulls like it that's for sure going to be your pass and I'm like that's just too bad that that's your path it's just I get freaking turn off this bowl and he was fine young man on the ground but then the freaking is charging him and the guy like I've never seen human Teriyaki basic just turned and ran as fast as he could but he went straight into this post like head first into this freaking steel pose like the edge of the because he just didn't know it was like the Bulls coming out of you like turns it around me baby like knocks himself out against this post and thankfully the Clown

► 01:03:00

and then the permit is at the crowds I like it that guys like messed up like you know everything about it made me like I would never want to hurt himself I don't know what's weird is that's culturally acceptable but like bull fighting is not online time off their balls and they're doing all kinds of things and some bad things to consider dating cows in a yeah that's weird justification yeah we had a guy in Fear Factor once that was a professional Rodeo guy and his

► 01:03:57

shoulder was like a topographic map who is just ahead so many scars in his shoulder and he told me to show the word just pop out just like you could just pop it out left and right from just being destroyed like powered by both falling getting it ripped apart riding bulls back together and tighten things down but it was just destroyed that I'm sure I'm sure bull rider would look at free so I can be like everybody looks at another store and they're like that's great and honestly I look at fighting and I'm like that seems totally out right just like why would you want some other dude beat you to death in cage it is outrageous but if you can get good enough where you can avoid and then the Total Tool and the Damage it's kind of the same beaten Landing the damage is hurting somebody else for the pledge of the crowd

► 01:04:57

knocking someone out is one of the weirdest feelings because part of you is happy that it's not you but part of you is like looking down with that guy that's just got flatlined in your life that could have been me how much do Fighters like hold back you know because I feel like you kind of half is like go to the death but then if you actually like punch somebody so hard they died or something I mean obviously you feel horrible red will you don't hold back at all I'm saying but it's like you don't hold back at all but then if you actually kill somebody when you feel horrible it's boxing it is very very rarely in mixed martial arts never in the UFC fight in boxing it happens more often and with one of the reasons why it happens more often the Box because you're only punching in MMA you're taking people down yet either top now cuz if there's more options you to defend yourself

► 01:05:57

I'm just getting battered against the ropes they're also nowadays much better it's stopping a fight when a fighter is clearly compromised when their there they're really fucked up in the old days they used to let guys just get battered needs to you know I'm foxy of it that doesn't sit well with me I'm just like that but that's why I'm not a fighter well it's just you in the mountain and its nature and it's beautiful and it's like very peaceful and calm it's like so different than having thousands of people screaming at you as you punch them in the face over and over just like dude that's not my scene well did you see the Conor McGregor khabib nurmagomedov fight with his the big wedding tables are crazier than what's funny is it became chaos because a fight erupted

► 01:06:57

outside of the parameters of the fight it was just more fighting scene fighting but it does out of the cage all my God he's out in the wild in the world fighting the whole list and then this is coming from someone who's been involved in this my whole life it's weird it's absolutely see all the arguments against it and yet you still want to punch anybody in the face anymore I still choke people but I think that's the thing about Jiu-Jitsu aspect of it as you you really can tap out and stop and you don't really get hurt the only time you get hurt training Jiu-Jitsu accidental for the most part especially with a black belt then you are with Wipeout

► 01:07:57

they'll be fine with just those tap you and yours why blacks don't kick you in the face song just came out and I don't know what to do with it so I threw it away I don't know unskilled guy who's extremely strong who's learning technique and is also likes a spaz is very dangerous to roll it on so yeah you don't beginner who's you know when dog saying I'm this strong Spas is not really going to work again so that's why you don't want to be a nurse going out and trying to like climbing Mountain together

► 01:08:57

don't worry about that like if you're climbing to ever climb like it is there a chain like one person in front of you like we need to meet soaps that first and then brings up a second cuz you're limited by the length of the Rope so they brought one person is at the end of the Rope brings out the next person that person climbs through bring up the second depended upon the holes that they put in when they put those bolts into the cracks and bolts bolts and things are very first person to have ever climbed the route for then everybody there after is able to just clip their their equipment into the Bold sir you know use pre-established anchors things like that so all the real the roots are already established and you can like reading a book that shows all the different routes so I can eat and has like a hundred and others hundred twelve only 15 or so of them can be free climbed which is different than free sewing free climbing meeting just using your hands in your feet and you're still using a rope you still clipping into protection as you go but your own

► 01:09:57

using your hand in your feet to get you up as opposed to like put in gear and it pulling on the gear Wichita so of the hundred roots on El Cap yes I mean like 90 of them you have to pull on the hardware you have to pick up the ladders in to in step on you know you have to hammer pitons in and then clip into them and stand on them and Hammer another pecan and step on that seminar 10 or 15 free climbing routes where you can climb in it so with my big goal of a friend free solo El Cap to Connell without a rope I was limited to just those 10 or 15 roots that are possible to climb just with your hands and feet and how did you establish the one that you wanted to proceed on by any means and so the easiest one wind up being the most secure the best one for me how many people have done it on free solo

► 01:10:57

and then nobody's ever even thought about it and I know he's considered it's not like something that people are trying to do now that you've done it other other people that are considering it I really don't need to do that ever I mean I don't even playing this game or not really aren't that many high-end resale Louis right now how many other I mean I don't know I don't know if there any others really are not this guy Brad go right now in the American guy who's been free song at a pretty high level but definitely he's a really good friend of mine so I'm not like slandering him but I'm but definitely had a very different level then then but he would never even dream of selling out that so he sort of starting out was nothing starting out and he's a very long time and he's doing all kinds of very difficult things but in terms of resoling I think he just doesn't need to push it as that hard so he's almost like he dabbles in free soloing yeah what I mean

► 01:11:57

climbing with my friends doing other things you know me I think most almost all climbers only that one free so I mean if we can sort of like one discipline of climbing like we were talking earlier about the Olympics having multiple disciplines you know there many types of climbing and most climbers do all of them to some extent and free soloing always represent sort of this small specialty like extra style so you do free climbing and then you also do the kind of climbing we have to put in those posts and stand on them are a common artificial, cuz I don't like to because of engineering but I do that because sometimes that's what it requires to get up big mountains and we going to get up and then once the Rope is secured about him a second person joins them and removes them all and then you have all your gear back and then you're able to do it again for the next section how much weight is that stuff or depends

► 01:12:57

we're doing the first two cents about having it something like 40 lb of 50 lb of iron hanging off and she's not as it's all out later and you can use better gear but but yeah it's a lot but that's kind of the timing or you freeze whole onions that you have nothing on you now how secure is that stuff that you're hanging hammer in in their story the people falling and ripping all the stuff but but but sometimes that's okay because if you're if you're a thousand feet off the ground you can take that hundred football and not touch anything it's fine still earlier than we thought

► 01:13:36

it's all well found it I mean you just got to trust it's not really sure the summer I was on my Tommy called though one of the best climbers in the country so the two of us did the speed record on El Cap earlier this year and so that's the two of us are tied together reason a row for using equipment but where anything goes your cheating as much as you can it's a trying to get from bottle cap to the top as fast as possible this is on a different route than the one that I freeze solid in the film and so we're trying to get sub 2 hours and we open and they didn't want 58 news is pretty awesome we are really psyched but along the way Tommy took a hundred football at one point you just I was talking about him with the whole one to 10 after Tuesday or something it's really really easy and he's probably giving an effort of like to and he just slept you know and I was like but anyway you feel like a hundred feet is just straight down the wall didn't touch anything because I clean vertical Cedar Rock how long does it take to fall on your feet that's not like several several no no no no

► 01:14:36

long enough to be like oh my God I'm going to die I would be attached to the Rope earlier to like catch him but I taking my blade of ice off and I was just tied into the end so basically fell on all the slack with through until it hit me at the end of the road but so when he yelled I barely had time to be like oh my God he's falling it like brace for impact like knowing the end of second the Rope is going to come tonight against the end that I'm tied into busy jerk me within thankfully there's enough Dragon the system that jerk me off the stand that I was on or else I would have gotten pulled over 50 feet across the wall on is all messed up so when he's falling and year you're realizing that you're going to get yanked by his fault are you like digging into the right now baby I was like oh my God

► 01:15:26

I was in this position I was actually like facing out away from the wall like facing out towards the meadow because I was in an open corner like if you look at the corner of the room imagine one leg on each side facing outward like push into this position because it's like I was about to have to untie my not retire and do some things and so I was basically like all ready to do some things and I'll send I hear that he's falling off my card in there like that you know how do you hit a ledge or something and potentially could have died but because it was it was clean their it was okay so if he was in a situation where there was a slight angle and he fell that far that's what's really dangerous I mean worst case scenario would be if he felt a hundred feet and 75 ft down there was a ledge sticking out to have the width of the table cuz then you would just clip it you break both your legs everything would explode and he needs to

► 01:16:28

what do you do if you fall and you break something in your half way up on this friend of mine who I actually previously held the speed of Earth is older guy Hunt's flooring the book how to speed Planned Pethood that I learn how to speak on from many years ago so he freaking exactly what I'm describing sort of worst case scenario he took this 20 probably a 22ft fall but you was unlucky enough which is totally fine he had a rope hero gear everything works exactly the way it supposed to he just always which is normal but the bomber was that there was a little ledge probably twice the size of that box right there like that little wooden box just come at this little thing sticking out in the wall about this for the basement he fell 20 feet hit that broke both of his ankles and then and then went off another 2 ft and so it's rough cotton and you know the fall was exactly as expect all his gear held everything is totally normal except that he happened to hit that thing right at the Apex of you know that the full force of this fall

► 01:17:28

it wouldn't matter. He was just hittin jumped off into space but because you already fallen 20 feet broke both his ankles and then he was kind of horrible I was actually up higher on the wall and Dad come in from above to just a repellent work on something and I heard him yelling but I was I thought he was too and hollering like I'll have to go and talk to you and then I like it find out to the summit and then when I take half way back down I got a voicemail from them saying that you're being my girl has Honda I think I just broke my my tib fib you know I'm busy like all can you can you help her if he already called search and rescue instead of a rescues already mobilized but search and rescue in you send me it's it's really the really fast but it's still certified a book seen it still takes kind of a lot of time and so I was like oh man like maybe I should run back up and repel down in like help my buddy repel down the wall again or something try like getting out of here faster just because when searching recipes no glasses like a long time and I was like if he's in a lot of pain that sucks you know I want to call

► 01:18:28

interesting talking through them to see if there is anything I can do to help but ultimately I wanted was going down because there wasn't really anything for me to do suspending for a while waiting for them to get them with two broken legs for you note 6 hours or 12 hours or something and then eventually they managed to haul them up to the summit and then I think they helicopter them off the next morning already dark by then

► 01:18:52

yeah I know it's kind of horrible but he's all recovered by now it's been 5 months or so so he's back at it seems like bad luck yeah that's not worth guess that's just bad luck that's when you're sitting there if you're sitting there hanging off a ledge like that with two broken ankles for 6 hours and then that must be Grim by time we get to Spain swelling and yes I think you repel down a hundred feet to a slightly bigger ledge so that he can lay on it and Elevate his legs and then I think there was some other climbers around the game of jacket you know so he gets hurt on the Latin like lay there and sort of managed but yeah I mean it seems extremely character-building the life you choose yeah yeah

► 01:19:52

just because of that it like that kind of things really close to home as a friend it's just so I thought that yeah

► 01:20:01

yeah when when you think about your life and you think about the stuff that you do do deep this point will you feel like you won't do it anymore or point where you feel like you want free solo anymore or do you look at like your friend who you were talking about who's older who's still free soloing and doing difficult past you think this is just your life forever no I don't know I honestly I'm not sure I don't think it's my path forever necessarily just because they're just aren't always bigger and harder things to do you know I mean El Cap represented sort of the end of this very long road to me and I still have many many things they were all sort of leaning towards El Cap and then I finally did that and not in at least right now I can't really imagine anything more inspiring to me in terms of free song Amanda plenty of other climbing challenges that I'm interested in like I was just hand you the speed record of something that I did you know this summer but is this like winning a big hand in Vegas we were just like okay

► 01:21:01

we got all the money let's get the fuck out of here because that's about that is too much black you know I mean it's like it's more like realizing a life dream and you're sort of like okay. I've seen it's a similar idea where you're like okay I will know it's not even I mean it is not even I was never seen you in a bit crazy risk and I wasn't what was it wasn't rolling the dice. Training for this thing and then I did it and I'm just not sure if there's a bigger thing that's worth more effort you know so I mean in relation to my girlfriend and she's great we have this nice life together and there's so much else and climbing and you know I mean maybe I'll never never seek out big free song challenge is the guy name who will see you're still relatively young terms of life itself. Do you think maybe there could be something that you would enjoy as much as you enjoy climbing

► 01:22:01

well I mean so no matter what I'll climb my whole life I'm not bringing hell of funny I'm even on the phone. I'm coming the gym everyday just for the movement of it just to enjoy climbing but I don't know I'm worthless the last 5 or 6 years supporting Soul around the world and so I could see you putting more effort into that I mean that something to satisfying in a way that climbing sort of isn't because it actually has a real tangible in back on the world you know me climbing is really fulfilling personally but when it's all said and done it's like it's just me going rock climbing into the matter but but at least working at fundations I actually doing something real what is your what is it is just the handle Foundation but it's even supporting solar if you want that the longer version is basically you know I was like looking for some way to do something positive in the world and so is looking just for environmental projects and I was like there's no real Point supporting final projects they don't also supports in thick increase Android living that like help people in need and that sort of like me to solar project

► 01:23:02

busy solar energy access and so that's what we went swimming last 5-6 years and so what do you do with this project was so domestically it was it mostly just been my way of donating my money to to other projects that that Sports also on domestically in the US have been spreading the script good alternatives for example in so I mean I've done a few minutes insulation in Sacramento downtown we're busy low-income family just get the free home solar system on the house and so it saves them the energy bills and then also in terms of you know Carbon emissions is just as good as the planet Nursery green the grid but on and then the bigger potentially the bigger impact have been project we've been supporting and Africa rocks it's like solar Lantern solar lights be no church cell phone did you like small scale systems was just the panel a battery in a few LED lights in a phone charger but I'm for those kinds of things can fundamentally change somebody's life because

► 01:24:02

if you can spend up to a quarter their income on kerosene there's just two light their home which is totally outrageous I mean imagine spending up since your income just to have light after dark urine like an equatorial regions the Earth it's dark for 12 hours a day I mean imagine if when the Sun goes down your productive hours are done you're so I can come sit in the dark for 12 hours it's crazy no billion people on Earth living without access to power and I mean it's hard not I mean I kind of see that it's a waste of human potential to some extent like it's just an unfortunate thing to think there's so many people live in you without access power on his crazy it is crazy and it's really crazy in California if there's not more solar when you think about how often it's sunny here she don't have no I mean it's it's really dumb at least it's it's growing very quickly in in California at least Bernie really so it should be pounding the horror that mean enough sunlight hits the Earth every I don't know that the terms. It's every like 10 or 15 minutes basically the power of the Earth for like the year if you're able

► 01:25:02

harness all energy is just such a cleaner simpler way of of power and the Earth in them only hope that that's going to

► 01:25:14

it's going to keep contains going to continue to evolve at the thing that drives me absolutely crazy is that it's totally obvious that in a hundred years the earth will be run through solar and things like that because it's just so much energy spilling out of the earth and its free and so I have to take knowledge the only approving everybody's adopting it like in a hundred years no question everything will be run from the Sun the thing that drives me saying that there's so much resistance do I from utilities from from you know consumer ignorance from whatever else but people just don't totally get it and sort of opposed to it and so you know half the world will be dragged kicking and screaming in the future any sort of like if you just embrace it and get there in 15 years instead of a hundred years all all the arguments about climate change all arguments about environmental degradation all those kinds of things will be mitigated to a large extent is there a downside to that even if you don't believe in climate change even if you know you do not know the science behind you think it's all Bs it's like is there really a downside to just adopting the few

► 01:26:14

here sooner if it's going to happen eventually but just do it now and save all the freaking hassle again there I think it's the momentum of the current system it's very difficult for people to just abandon establish ways of doing things especially down here so hooked on fossil fuels I know but like it's just such a bummer that the status quo is such a thing your people like all that's the way we do it let's just keep doing that and it's because there's so many things in life the change so frequently you know it's like I'm in the world is constantly changing your life that's just embrace the changes that matter the most and just do them faster will you talk to me as a guy who lives in a van climbs rocks in this business people that have thousands and thousands of employees and millions if not billions of money of dollars invested in these things that's the problem is kind of my system and I was just too bad it is but it's inevitable agree with you it's inevitable that we will embrace it and change I think one

► 01:27:14

yeah it's going to be dragged out so long you're sort of like why can't people just embrace the inevitability of it and just move forward but I think they slowly are but things like that take time I think one one big things going to be if they can never figure out a way to solar power cars as you're driving them so you never really have it and I don't think that I'll ever be a thing figured out how to do it with your stereo they figured out how to do it with your radio system and the slight difference in car panel the roof panels at the company that many years ago there was a big storm that hit the east coast and they had a bunch of cars parked at a dock and they all exploded when the water hit them and they realize way way way way you can't get your things drenched in water like when the water hit a certain level like they had a severe flaw and so they burst into flames exploded and there's this whole like

► 01:28:14

filled with these Fisker karmas that blew up and they called him Karma's which is even more hilarious he watches exploding that's pretty bad because like that's all bad all the way oh yeah I think they sent fix that but yeah was a big flaw but that's I was just actually reading out of the fridge in this business management book but I just I'm up Ford Pinto with to close the back bumpers base in your gas tank protected by Nature plastic and you know this man from the Cars explode in just like man that's speed of bad decisions if an automatic reaction was a disaster it wasn't good but yeah I think what they what they're capable of doing right now I think you're right I don't think you can power a car with solar panels completely I mean you certainly can from your house that was their initial claim in there now

► 01:29:14

that would power the whole car and everybody was like that's bullshit I'm trying to find that it updates but that seems totally outrageous cuz I'm in the Future car is more like a smaller car with no root like a glass roof like Tesla Star Wars

► 01:29:39

solar roof create enough energy to power the car no other vehicle sold in the US ever offered this capability that might be true if it just sat Park in the Sun for 12 hours and then he drove home driveway yeah you worked at night but I don't know but I mean the solar panels of today mean I have a buddy of mine that does a lot of backpacking and he carries around this it's like a foldable solar charger for his phone and he you know fold it up and it plays it out and then put a charger there and then he uses that charger to charge his phone but he does really killed go 20 + days with just this thing so I mention our expedition to Antarctica last winter so that's 24 hours of sunlight because you're in their summer and our entire expedition was run from solar generator in the other

► 01:30:39

that's on the trip forgot oil for the generator basic being so it wasn't going to work and so we're like all I guess we'll have to try to use the solar which it's sort of in our backup system and it actually we ran the whole trip on solar and everything worked in so that they were filming sore bunch of cameras bunch of batteries laptops backing up drives they were find a drone quite a bit for aerial footage is all, beautiful sunny day busy ran this whole operation off solar winning between the camera I just got probably busy just had to wake up you know every 2 hours to move the panels around the tent is the Sun Tracker on the sky you know so that it's always in full sun and he had to sleep in the batteries and things to make sure thing stay warm nice but otherwise I mean but that's I mean cuz I'm really cold it's funny because you put your laptop some stuff into coolers like and ice chest to keep them inflated enough to stay warm as opposed to cold water because the outside temperature but it was cool though because you know that way we didn't have to run this iCloud stinky annoying generator it's like you just have your panels working full-time yeah that's one of the weirdest things about like Tesla's when you

► 01:31:39

yeah I know it's awesome. Yeah but it's not like diesel exhaust right next to on the city streets yeah you don't hear the car that runs you over right now if you still do that too because something like 30% of the noises the tires yeah but that is just so much more mellow you don't hear like an engine like ripping right by you yeah I think it's inevitable that we figure out a way that you can just power everything from solar and including cars as you're driving them means always make sense as the technology improved solar film serving Windows bikes Out imagine office building where the windows are all producing power I mean if you think about that with the car if it's just like a glass Dome over you but it's also producing power yeah I have a watch that runs on solar power power

► 01:32:39

but still me you don't really need new batteries for it to your house yeah yeah I do when I was a kid I like that you got involved in this how much preparation did you do me what was what was the the motivation like how to trigger the foundation looking to do something positive for the world and so and so I was going to start donating significant percentage of my income to to environmental non-profits and then I decided that I should do it instead of a public-facing way and the formula Foundation just because I felt like you know I'm never going to have nearly as much money is as real philanthropic organization and I like the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation like I'll never have it I'll never have real dollars like that but I do sort of have this platform like some sort of public do you know Persona whatever cuz I was like well at least if I donate things so I can serve leverage that in the right way to contribute

► 01:33:38

but I'm busy trying to maximize the good then I'm doing and so yes and then I just started researching organizations that I feel like we're doing great working that that let me know solar business income come from sponsors and from public appearances like how do you say was mostly sponsors and then it sort of his shift in in the sponsors and sort of one-off things so like I probably could book a few years ago and said there's an advancement unlike the film has made a little money and ran a little things in the now it's also sort of split with like corporate speaking type commercial opportunities as well so sponsorship is still probably the biggest thing for me so I can not take a sponsor and most important sponsor for me but then now it's sort of split between a bunch of different sources of the public speaking things of these corporate appearances you just go and just talk to them about free solo climbing and yeah talking about climbing preparation or I mean depends on what what somebody needs really depends with organizations I've spoken to a bunch of venture

► 01:34:38

Brookside Farms about risk taking a risk management or how do you know so they just look at you is like sort of inspiration to mix things up for the company I'd like to think that it's a slightly more interesting talk than the average business speaker you know but I think that it still gets back to some of the same element always you never talk about the yeah I mean how do you manage risk in your life and then what's worth it and how do you choose it's a smart move to for a company to just kind of like very the kind of input the kids to the the the employees I give them something this kind of spectacular interesting and you know now when you look at the future

► 01:35:25

do you do you have a map of what you would like to be doing dude are you just sort of enjoying your experience here or do you do you have grand plans

► 01:35:35

yeah I don't really have Graham plans I mean I've never really had a grand plan it's always been that I love climbing I want to do it well I want to push myself and I think that's kind of my grand plan on me now I'm still trying to be a better climber I'm still trying to grow the foundation do something more significant through it actually hired full-time executive director this year this woman who's running for me I want an awesome surprise she uses her to wrap it all up a little bit outside in response to the film because they serve figured that you know this is like a moment that I should try to take advantage of it and use it to do something more positive and so is that that's Oxford exciting for me and definitely not a grand plan but it's you know it's just a Revolt incremental progress when you're doing all these climbs you have a lot of time when you're it takes time to do these things out so is this when you start thinking about these ideas and I think about like how much you enjoy being out here in nature and what

► 01:36:35

spending most my time of national parks in in public lands in general and so I mean all these beautiful places and it's like yeah I mean I care about them I want to have a family someday I want to be able to take my kids to be same places and having appreciate the land in the same way I mean it like you send me the last five years for the entire forces base we died from from pine beetles with all the pine trees eventually die because of pine beetles and so like just in the last 5 years at say that you send me valley floor his sort of transformed from like a dense plan for us to start at this open Oak Forest so I totally different character is all the pine trees have died and then they been cutting them all down to release fuel in so they're busy logging trucks with pine trees leaving the park not stop which which which I totally support and I can't I log into dead trees cuz I you may as well use them if they're already dead and I definitely don't want to see you Sunday volatile person to plan so it makes sense but at the same time I mean you know that's a real that's a very direct result of punishing him he's 10 years of drought in California combined with with the shorter way

► 01:37:35

it's like you just have these beetles decimating it hard for us and I do not mean that that sucks seeing her like I know I don't want to see the whole for his die in this is invasive in that I don't know what's been said we would do something that could be wrong about this but with a lot of the time your problems in in Colorado that has more to do with a shorter winter and in warmer temperatures because normally The larva would die through the winter like they would freeze but you know basically they're not freezing it's the same extent of the population explosion then you wind up with all the trees time we were there and we were in Big Bear a few years back when they're having a real issue with it and they were having real significant fire scares it was it was nerve-racking because you sent me was like on fire from the whole southern part of the part was like burning for months and that's yummy fire is a natural part of the ecosystem in that you know to some extent you like that's normal but it's like it's not normal right now because if you love is so high it's like so dry

► 01:38:35

it's just it's too much you know and I just would love for my kids someday to be able to appreciate the park the way I have for so long and I just don't want to see you don't burn when we were in Big Bear that's my feeling it was it was it was sad that you're seeing something that was probably his rich green Lush Forest that's now really weird gray and dry but is also like you're around kindling like you're basically in a big stack of dry wood before it gets lit on fire and you're surrounded by and if you know of any of it hits up there it's I mean I've been evacuated where I live several times twice actually and come close a couple other times and it's it's terrifying cuz Southern California when it goes It goes yeah and there's just no stopping it sound like yeah this is why I'm like this is why we transition is solar sooner than you know because it's like if it helps at all with these kinds of issues then ride worth worth the effort you know it's going to happen anyway

► 01:39:35

how old is doing now so this thing that you were doing in Antarctica your filming something there as well to do a lot of that now and content and so it makes sense to film a trip like that and we were somewhere the nobody ever goes we're doing first a sense of peace and then never been climbed so don't make sense to document that to some extent but in general I think I try to balance my just pure climbing with with filming that's why I was going to ask you like you don't want to get everything on your head everywhere you drive me crazy I'm not into that but when you're in the most beautiful place shooting people up when when you are in that sort of situation where you show your filming these things like it is it difficult to be to act normal to

► 01:40:35

did to be yourself or not refuses a peace offering seller you know that I only have one mode and that's just that's just me which I mean when when I see this at home a lot of them maybe I need to send some more like maybe I should be a little more thoughtful about what I said but but no I mean I'm pretty much always I just I just do me and a few other family or not. Just get more mindful of profanity in a few things like that if I know that I mean feeling right now I'm being watched and I try to be in a slightly more respectful especially if I see kids in an audience I definitely tried not to curse but that's what I would have some talking about earlier when I was asking like the difference between you when your your your love of This Is Your Love of Nature and of being in these beautiful National Forest in public lands and experiencing these amazing environments but then sometimes that gets sort of perverted when you filming everything and you've got people just everything

► 01:41:35

becomes this sort of presentation and everything becomes professional and I think they did an amazing job of maintaining yes the character you know that the new on psych not burning in anyway. I think it was amazing even though it's like this spectacular feet it's still sort of subdued in its own way it's just heard of Lay's it out beautifully less you just her to judge for yourself and just it's impossible to be anything but spectacular so you don't really have to dress it up it's pretty dress on a Ferrari you've already got it have you ever thought about doing some journal from the field or some sort of a podcast or something along those lines

► 01:42:35

should I yeah the podcast where he just talks and he does other Monday but he's a comedian just sitting down I mean you could go off notes you go off of and just I think people would love that if you just thought about it I mean I do have some things that I got a fun fact of a such a large platform now I don't know I don't know I'll consider that the first time I ever mentioned toria's for trying to talk people into podcast but I really think in your case it'd be a great idea to me and you really do but you should really do it

► 01:43:35

you if you had a portable unit like a what when he's like we've done a bunch of them or just the voice notes from the phone just talking into the voice notes from the phone and you can make a podcast off. It's really easy to upload but just sitting maybe sitting in your van you know afterwards and just talking about things you're working on with your foundation talk to you about spectacular moments during climbs where you're seeing things and you know what we're talking about what it's been like doing the store for free so you know down by that I mean that's interesting about there

► 01:44:35

put it on Twitter let anything like that but this very specific

► 01:44:50

very unusual life and you also have all these ideas about the environment and have all these ideas about using it for positive reasons and and and trusting God make the world a better place and having making an impact with your foundation. I really think you could put the best thing with your foundation would be to make make it exposed to more people and it was most certainly do that spinning and report him yeah and it would be kind of cool you know I like you at the base of the mountain just talking about this and climbing in your personal thoughts in that moment could be doushita number it happens it have to be well done well

► 01:45:50

you never know when you're like I'm just going to record monologues than me rambling about ideas that's that's me start to Trend towards douchiness perhaps slippery slope you could always review it'll have your girlfriend if you don't have to do it live just you know and then she can say okay that part where you rant and Rave about diesel might want to yank that yeah I know I feel stronger but I'll rant and Rave about these are for a back just not bros yeah yeah well hopefully I kind of don't care who comes to Market first that stuff I just want somebody to start selling a lot of them she like I just want to change to happen quickly does it matter who does it or how it so I could just needs to happen you've got a very significant voice right now you know I really think that you can make a big impact with a lot of people in the thing about these impacts it's her like the butterfly effect rights like you're never know what it is

► 01:46:50

people going to hear you just from this podcast in the things you're saying about solar in about and and people thinking about like yeah maybe I maybe I can do something and then boom it just makes these little incremental steps and then they carry on momentum and you never know that's that's the positive way of looking at it you know wherever you are just mean that he doesn't you don't have to have the beautiful thing is to it doesn't have to have any kind of structure you don't have any time you could do one for 15 minutes if you want people will listen to it you could do it for an hour know that that might be a little micro hits like little Rambles for sure do it as long as you want there's no there's no real structure to it where you have to do something yeah yeah you just decide to we never have to do anything you just find what inspires you you work towards that you do when your

► 01:47:50

about it yeah I'm totally into that kind of thing cuz that's a voice contrast you're climbing from other mainstream sports like that because it's climbing it's like the objective is always that you're always inspired by you do it whenever you're ready to have any perform on the right day at the right time you know that I got I love that last hour you let you know today is my day or today is not my day El Cap if there was a sort of a documented audio Journal circulation fulfillment fantastic but just getting people like to join your more stuff and it's entirely up to you what you want to share don't want to share and it is specially if you do it this way you don't have an executive producer you don't have directors mode without I definitely can handle too much just you just you just talking about stuff and your specific vision of the things that you like to talk about

► 01:48:50

message because that's one of the things that people really really enjoy about something like a podcast is that they know there's no one telling you what to say or what to do that in your heart, sitting in his van you know drinking a cup of tea just with a iPhone talking it's hard to imagine that. Tell Jamie I appreciate that but I'm slightly worried I'm going to be it I'm going to miss my flame okay yeah we got to get you out of here. Thanks for being here really appreciate it on sax it was like what no idea what I'm doing this is so much and I now feel so much more comfortable and fun to chat

► 01:49:50

Raikou I appreciate it thanks I appreciate it thank you everyone for tuning into the podcast and thank you to our sponsors thank you to the cash app download the cash app for free in the app store or the Google Play Market and when you download the cash app into the referral code Joe Rogan one word you will receive $5 in the cash app will send $5 to Justin Brands fight for the Forgotten charity thank you also to LegalZoom taking care of legal issues online at your own convenience and you will not be charged by the hour since LegalZoom is not a law firm motherfuckers visit legalzoom.com now to take care of your business before the year ones down and for special savings be sure to enter the code Rogan in the referral box at checkout code Rogan for special savings only at legalzoom.comlegalzoom.com

► 01:50:50

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